Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Day 13 Meeting a colleague on the streets of Amritsar and Final Post

A morning to relax in the hotel, then our guide and driver took us into the city of Amritsar to walk the streets and visit the oldest bazaar in the city (400 years old).  Since we are on foot for the next couple of hours, we are able to meet the ‘local dentist’.  He is a non-trained sidewalk dentist for the very poor.  I did ask him a bit about what dentistry he did and how he did it.  He showed me his one well worn and rusty forcep, and on a ledge on the wall behind him, he showed me a tooth he had pulled!  He told us to ‘replace’ a tooth, it would cost someone 200 rupees.  That’s about $3.00 US.  Not sure what replacing a tooth means, but it sounds like a pretty good deal for the patient.  Before leaving, surprisingly, he wanted copies of our photos, we arranged with our guide to email them back to him.

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He was quite proud of his flippers and dentures

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He, also, wanted me to see his nice denture teeth

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Next door was the tattoo artist

A few pictures below of our walk through the bazaar.

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We paid for our guide to get his shoes shined and repaired by this guy.  Looks like he has been there for a hundred years.  I paid him 35 cents for a nice shine and a bit of glue and sew-up of one shoe.

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These buildings were built before our Revolutionary War

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Manjeet didn’t have a big buffet breakfast like we did, so we watched him eat his Chicken Biryani street side.  We could have joined him, but probably not a good idea to eat street food just before a 30 hour marathon to get home.

So ends our adventure in India.  Great food, great people.  Really, a world up side down from ours.  We had little exposure to their middle and upper class, but we did see how, probably, a billion Indians live.  Poor and in need of many things, but they probably don’t need or desire what we have.  One must honor their resourcefulness.  The country and culture has a deep history.  One must honor that as well.  I would recommend a holiday in India to those willing to watch, listen and learn.

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Sunday, November 1, 2015

Eating and sleeping in India

Since this is a tour, accommodations are 4-5 star.  This means bigger breakfast buffets, two queen size beds, not a double bed, bags brought to our door and friendly, smiling people to help you in the elevator or assist you in passing through the metal detector at the front door.  No complaints there.

Eating, however, whether we are on a tour or our own is always an adventure.  At least we choose it to be.  Our breakfast buffet the first day was both late and large, so we just skipped lunch entirely.  We could have eaten at our hotel, the Crowne Plaza for dinner, they had a Mexican Restaurant!? (with a 15% discount), but we preferred to walk a mile or so the the local train/metro station, find an ATM and see what sort of restaurants the locals eat at.

We found a food court of sorts, passed on Subway and McDonalds and dined at the Kabob Roll CafĂ©.  Gloria got the Vege Thali and I, the Chicken Biryani, with an egg on top.  Both, pictured below.  We also had a Pineapple Lassi, (hold the ice).  No  dessert, but back at the hotel, I chased it with a Cipro, (antibiotic), just to be safe!  Excellent food, enough for 4 people and a total of $7.00.  A good score for our first dinner in India.

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Onward to Agra.  First, another buffet breakfast in Delhi.  Buffets typically have a ‘western’ section, and ‘India’ section, and frequently an ‘Asian’ section.  We usually stick to the western section for breakfast and hit the local, ethnic choices for the other meals of the day.  For lunch we stop at a roadside eatery.  We are still full from breakfast, so we pass on lunch and enjoy some gelato.  Dinner is at our the hotel in Agra, another nice 4 star.  Another buffet.  Again, the three ethic sections, we stick to Indian.  Good, not great, still a buffet……Tomorrow is sunrise viewing of the Taj Mahal, followed by breakfast buffet.

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Agra had a good breakfast buffet, we took the dinner buffet the first night, but it was too much food, too late in the day.  We passed on the dinner buffet the second night, just ate a HUGE breakfast buffet and a few snacks during the day.  What are we starting to miss?  Salad.  Cold vegies.

While at the Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve they fed us all three meals.  Three buffets a day.  No ‘western’ food.  All good, but a bit monotonous.  With an early morning game drive, we would eat breakfast at 10, then lunch at 12:30, not enough time to digest and start up again. Also, our guide, Ashok forbad us from eating any of the salads they had.   They all looked excellent, but he wouldn’t even eat them since he wasn’t sure how the vegies were washed and prepared.  He kept saying ‘better safe then sorry’.  Room was nice. An outdoor and indoor shower!  Nice swimming pool.  Actually relaxed for a couple of hours after the game drive.

Agra. The high tea at the The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel will be good party topic, not much more.  The history of the original compound was more interesting than the ‘high tea’.  The waiters were very friendly, and quite proud that they had appeared in the movie.

We are at the Le Meridien for three nights.  This is a 5 star hotel in the US, 3-4 star here.  It actually rained last night.  Cleared the air a bit, but still pretty smoggy.  Another huge buffet breakfast.

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This the the cold cereal bar at the breakfast bar

We wanted more than snacks for the rest of the day, so we headed out around 4 to look for a place to eat.  A few blocks from the hotel was a group of engineering colleges.  School was over for the day and everyone was walking somewhere.  Most stared as we walked around and through them, one group wanted to know where we were from, another wanted to know how old we were (?!), all very friendly.  We did find a little restaurant though, Pizza World.  Went inside and discovered we could get a medium pizza to share for $2.50!  We went for it.

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A decent deep dish pie.  We did chase it with a Cipro once we got back to the hotel room, though.

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This is a great sign considering the place was deafening.  Another sign said, “Don’t Waste Food”

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A big group of engineering students.  They thought it was pretty cool so see us in there……I think.

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This is an India pancake.  Very nice.  Very thin, with a tomato chutney and an unknown chutney.  No maple syrup here.

Pool side at the Le Meridien.  We thought this was pretty nice till we walked next door to the Fairmont.  As we entered the gate in the wall surrounding the property, (!?), there was a brass fanfare from above, whoa, then as we entered the hotel, someone escorted us to the reception playing some sort of stringed instrument.  Yep, felt pretty special……

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Breakfast on the train from Delhi to Amritsar.  First, the train was a huge disappointment, but we weren’t expecting any breakfast, so as they were serving us four different trays that was a bit of a surprise.  The result is below.

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First, the menu.  We were only given the vegetarian (!) option. This rendering is on our tray cover.

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The first ‘course’ was actually the cup of lemon water on the tray below.  After that was a pot of hot water, tea and a biscuit.

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The fourth tray was breakfast itself as listed on the tray cover.  Where are the breakfast buffets when we need them……

 

We leave for home today.  Final thoughts:  Best meal was lunch we had at the wedding.  Worst meal was the one mentioned above, breakfast on the train.  Buffets………time to move on, too much food to eat in on setting, although when you only eat one or two meals for the day, they do stick with you.  What did we miss? 7-11’s!  These are found most everywhere in the world.  A quick run in to grab something cold or packaged. 

Overall, hotels were great.  Around 4 star, plenty of amenities, a nice retreat from the craziness of Indian street life.  Thumbs up to anyone interested in visiting India.

 

Biggest food surprise:

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A vegetarian McDonalds.  Hell just froze over……….

Day 12 Gloria dancing at the Wagah border between India and Pakistan

Our final stop in a long day is the Wagah border closing 'lowering of the flags ceremony, or The Beating Retreat ceremony.  It is a daily military practice that the security forces of India (Border Security Force) and Pakistan (Pakistan Rangers) have jointly followed nightly since 1959.  The drill is characterized by elaborate and rapid dance-like maneuvers.  It is alternatively a symbol of the two countries' rivalry, as well as a brotherhood and cooperation between the two nations.

It is sorta like half time at a football game.  On the Pakistani side there are two grandstands, one for women, one for men. (Most in Pakistan are Muslin, most in India are Hindu).  Our side has one big set of bleachers, but they are constructing another to double the capacity.  Before the actual ceremony begins, there is flag waving and cheers on the Pakistani side, and dancing on the India side.  Gloria joined the ladies dancing.  Yo!

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Note the security people around the dancers
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The Indian Side
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The Pakistani Side
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All the Indian military were chosen with two criteria: that had to be at least 6’4” tall, and had to be able to kick above their heads.  Really…..
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The Pakistani Military through the open gate.
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The ceremony ends with the concurrent lowering of the flags, a brisk handshake and the closing of the gates.  Quite a daily spectacle.














Day 12 Crashing an Indian Wedding

Our goal for the afternoon was to view the ‘border ceremony’ at the Indian/Pakistani border.  This is a pomp and circumstance that occurs every night to the delight of grandstands full of onlookers.  Kinda a cross between a military parade and roller derby.  But…..that is in the next post.  Here we will tell a story of how we crashed an Indian wedding and ended up meeting the bride and groom.
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As many of you know, weddings are a big thing in India.  Their wedding venues are huge and extravagant.  Weddings are typically two days.  This was day two for this wedding.
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By mid-afternoon, lots of food had been consumed as well as lots of liquor, everyone is having a great time.
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We were the only Westerners there, lots of smiles
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Disco!
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Rather than just walking around taking pictures, we were asked to join in the festivities.  Our new best friends.
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LOTS of toasts.
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These bagpipers announced the bride and groom
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This is the happy couple, taken with my telephoto.
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This is our inside man.  He made things happen.  Real friendly, but wouldn’t smile for pictures.
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Note, same expression on his face.  We soon discovered he was the brother of the bride.  We had our connection.  Next, onstage.
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We did it, (or he did).  We didn’t realize till we were looking at the pictures later that he was in the middle.  Same expression.
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Gloria meeting the mother of the bride!
Inside this gargantuan pavilion was more food!  We finally dug in.  Best food of our vacation!  A Great Time!!

Day 12 Feeding 40,000 people a day

We have learned that Sikhs are a very kind, giving people.  They believe in equality of all people.  No discrimination based on skin color, beliefs, sex, social status.  Part of ‘what they do’ is feed a ton of people.   A few pictures to show how they do it.

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First, everyone gets a spoon, bowl and plate.

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This is the ‘water boy’  as people are eating there meal, if they want more water, he rolls up with this jug and spigot on the left.  Also note the bicycle handlebars, (and a hand brake!)

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Cooking the lentils.  Beyond is the wood that feeds the three fire pits for the lentil ‘pots’

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These are vats of ‘milk tea’ served to everyone.

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Thousands of people are eating at any one time.

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Gloria trying her hand at making chapati.

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Doing the dishes.

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Painting ‘ghee’ (clarified butter) on the chipati.